The Rolex Submariner, a name synonymous with diving prowess and enduring style, holds a special place in horological history. Within the vast Submariner lineage, the reference 1680, produced from 1966 to 1980, stands out for its captivating variations, particularly those featuring the iconic red “GMT-Master” bezel insert against a black dial. This combination, a testament to Rolex's design ingenuity and enduring appeal, has cemented its status as a highly sought-after collector's piece. This article delves into the fascinating world of the Rolex Submariner 1680 with a red bezel and black face, exploring its history, variations, and the market surrounding this coveted timepiece.
The Rolex Submariner 1680 wasn't simply a single model; it was a family of watches. While the overall design remained consistent – the robust 40mm Oyster case, the screw-down crown, and the unidirectional rotating bezel – subtle yet significant differences existed in the dial configurations. A total of eight distinct dial variations were produced, including those with the striking red bezel insert paired with a black dial. These variations are often categorized as "Mark" variations, usually denoted as MK1, MK2, etc., reflecting the subtle evolution of the dial's design elements over the years. These details, seemingly minor, are crucial for discerning collectors and significantly impact the value of each individual watch.
The red bezel itself is a key characteristic. Unlike the more common black or blue bezels found on other Submariner models, the red bezel on the 1680 is a distinctive feature that immediately draws attention. It's often referred to as the "red GMT-Master" bezel due to its resemblance to the bezel found on the GMT-Master models of the time. However, it's crucial to understand that the 1680 with the red bezel is *not* a GMT watch; it lacks the second time zone functionality of the GMT-Master. The red bezel served primarily as a timing bezel, allowing divers to track elapsed time during a dive. The vibrant red color against the matte black dial creates a striking contrast, making the watch both functional and aesthetically pleasing. The color itself can vary slightly depending on the age and exposure to sunlight, with some examples showing a deeper, richer red than others. This variation in color is part of the charm and character of vintage watches.
The black dial on the 1680 further contributes to the watch's timeless elegance. The matte black surface provides a perfect backdrop for the luminous hour markers and hands, ensuring excellent legibility even in low-light conditions. The dial variations within the 1680 family include differences in the font style used for the markers and text, the presence or absence of certain markings (like the "Swiss Made" wording), and the lume material used. These subtle differences are meticulously documented by collectors and enthusiasts, making the identification and authentication of specific MK variations a fascinating aspect of collecting these watches.
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